Salvage Heart

During a visit to the Charleston, SC area, this was the spot that almost broke the bank (or the marriage)...night after night of eating in and at dive restaurants, one member of our party was ready for something beyond fried shrimp. Fortunately, that member was overruled (she would rise and conquer the following evening). Instead, we backtracked from the beach to this spot about 15 minutes outside of Charleston SC, Bowens Island Restaurant.

It looked casual enough from the outside, the "kind of place where you grab your own beer out of the cooler," explained our driver. Upon walking through the front entryway, however, we were surprised to find something...else. For a brief moment, panic fell over this party of six, as though stumbling upon squatters in the vacation home rental.The heavyset gentleman seated at the table in front of the counter stared at us, while a grizzled stringbean of a middle-aged man advanced by his wispy Spanish Moss-esque beard walked around behind the counter and stared at us. He was funny, in the the vein of "bitterly resentful," suggesting that the sign over his head instructing visitors to order and pay at the counter should be printed in braille, as evidenced by the apparent number of blind people that made their way to his kitchen (we inadvertently asked not one but two questions answered by that sign). He was funny, also, in how surprised he seemed to be to see us, as though the last folks he expected to walk through the door would be diners.

We ordered and then made our way out to picnic benches out back, overlooking the intercoastal waterway and a boat dock. We waited, swatting at apprehension buzzing about us in the early evening haze. Other diners made their ways out onto the deck, smiling, and when dinner came, it was all worth while. Fried shrimp was outstanding, probably the best of the places we visited, with a light crisp batter neither too oil-y or greasy, and the slaw was creamy and not overloaded with cabbage. The hush puppies and fries were exactly what you might expect...golden and crispy and straight from the fryer.

Bowens Island Restaurant does not have a Web site, but they do have an address. Also, I believe that it is a cash-only joint. Recommended on and on.

Bowens Island Restaurant, 1870 Bowens Island Road, Charleston, SC 29412; (843) 795-2757.